How to Make a Tiled Inset Shelf in a Bath

Custom bath or shower construction typically grants a homeowner or builder greater freedom in regards to material, size and design than simply installing a prefabricated unit. One feature commonly included in tiled shower or tub surround walls is inset, or recessed, shelves. Sometimes also referred to as a shampoo or shower niche or nook, this custom shower article must be framed and lined with backerboard and waterproof membrane before the tiles and any shelves can be installed.

Instructions

Cut the space for the inset shelf in the cementboard on the shower wall. The shelf should be located between two wall studs and in an area with little or no plumbing or wiring. If you are placing the inset shelf in an existing, completed wall, you must remove the tile or surfacing in that area and any underlying materials.

Construct the frame for the inset. Measure the horizontal space and cut two lengths of 2-by-4s to fit tightly between the wall studs. Pound the wood into place with a hammer. If they do not fit snugly, use screws to attach them to the studs. If the planned inset is smaller than the stud bay, install vertical pieces of wood to provide walls. Measure the vertical space between the 2-by-4s, cut wood to fit and attach it to the horizontal wood.

Cut a piece of cement backerboard to be placed on each surface within the inset, including the ceiling.

Install the cement backerboard in the inset, beginning with the piece for the back wall. Follow with the side pieces, using screws and a drill to secure them. For additional security, dab a small amount of thinset mortar on the back of each panel before pressing it in place.

Measure and cut a section of waterproof membrane, like PVC, to fit inside the inset. Alternatively, use a paint-on type membrane to create an even, watertight layer.

Adhere the membrane to the inset walls using an adhesive suited for use with the specific membrane material or thinset mortar. Press the material into the recess carefully to minimize air pockets or creases.

Tile the area around the inset. Use bullnose cap tiles, orienting them so that the lip overhangs the edge slightly. Take the thickness of the tiles that will be used for the interior into consideration. Cut tiles as needed for the planned design. Spread a thin layer of thinset mortar on the wall around the inset and press the tiles into the mortar. Use tile spacers between tiles to create uniform spaces and check for evenness with a level.

Prepare tiles for the back of the inset. The tiles may look attractive with joints aligned with surrounding tile joints or set diagonally and centered. Cut the tiles to fit the planned design accordingly.

Adhere the tiles for the back wall. Spread a thin layer of thinset mortar on the rear of the inset using a notched trowel and press the tiles in, again using spacers to guide the gaps between tiles and checking for evenness with a level or straightedge.

Tile the side walls up to the point where a shelf will be installed.

Lay the shelf, which is often a solid piece of marble or similar material, in the inset so that it is supported by the row of side tiles underneath. Do not adhere the shelf to the walls at this point.

Tile the remainder of the side walls and the ceiling of the inset using the same techniques as with the back wall. Place tile or shelving material for the floor of the inset. If the inset will be exposed to water, this surface must slope forward slightly. Build up the mortar slightly more near the rear of the inset before pressing the tile in to create a slope.

Place a small piece of paper, wood or other shim at the rear base of any shelves to prop the back of the shelf up slightly and establish a slope.

Grout all gaps between tiles and around the shelves in the inset. Cover and embed the small objects at the rear base of the shelf.

Place a bead of silicone caulk along all of the corners within the recess.

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