Retiling A Tub

As you undertake a bathroom renovation, the task of retiling a tub surround may be on your to-do list. If you spend some time carefully removing the old tile, you may be able to avoid replacing the cement backer board underneath the tiles. This would enable you to begin the tiling process much quicker. If there are any signs of water damage to the backer board behind the bathtub tile surround, you must take the time to repair the damage otherwise water may seep behind the tiles and cause rot and mold.

Instructions

Remove all the plumbing fixtures. Either twist the fixture from its pipe or unscrew the mounting screws holding it in place. Cover the bathtub with plastic sheeting to protect it. Tape the sheeting in place with duct tape.

Scrape the grout from between the tile joints with a sharp object such as a screwdriver. Take care not to gouge the backer board underneath. A multipurpose tool with a cutting tip is also useful for this part of the project.

Insert the tip of a pry bar under the tiles and pry them off.

Scrape as much of the old mortar and adhesive off the wall as possible with a putty knife.

Inspect the backer board for signs of water damage. Remove damaged sections by unscrewing them or cutting them out with a jigsaw. Cut new pieces of backer board with a utility knife and attach them to the wall studs with screws.

Mix thinset mortar according to package directions. Place a thin layer on all of the backer board seams using a trowel. Embed mesh tape in the mortar and smooth it out with the edge of the trowel.

Add a scratch coat of thinset mortar to the entire wall using a notched trowel. This roughened surface gives the tiles and their adhesive a good surface to adhere to. Allow the thinset time to dry according to package directions.

Measure and mark the center points horizontally and vertically for all three of the walls of the tub surround using a chalk line. Use a carpenters level to ensure the lines are level and plumb both horizontally and vertically.

Lay out tile on the floor, allowing room for grout joints. Determine whether you need to cut any tiles on the top, bottom or sides of the sections. Its never a good idea to have to cut a tile to less than half its width. Adjust your chalk lines accordingly instead.

Apply tile mastic to one of the lower quadrants on one of the walls with the notched trowel. Set tiles in place following your layout design. Place the first row of tiles along the horizontal and vertical lines you marked in Step 1 of this section. Put spacers between the tiles to keep them an even distance apart. Fill in the remaining portion of that section, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between the lowest row of tiles and the bathtub.

Cut tiles with a tile cutter. Set the tiles in the cutter and run its wheel over the face of the tile to score it. Tap the tile cutters handle gently with your hand to finish breaking the tile into two pieces. Cut odd sized pieces with a tile nipper. Use a hole saw attached to a drill to cut out circular pieces. Place cut edges so they face away from the center of the tile project.

Continue placing mastic on the wall and setting tiles in the remaining sections of the tub surround. Mastic sets up in about 20 minutes so only spread what you can tile in that amount of time. If the mastic sets up before you tile it, scrape it off and apply fresh mastic.

Set a row of bull nose tile in mastic around the perimeter of the tub surround. Remove spacers. Allow the entire tub surround to dry overnight.

Mix grout according to package directions. Work the grout into the joints with a grout float. Wipe off excess grout with a clean, damp sponge after the grout sets for 15 minutes.

Apply a bead of silicone caulking between the bottom row of tiles and the bathtub. Wet your finger and run it over the caulking to provide a uniform appearance to the caulking bead.

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